Every now and then I receive an email from someone who wants to move to Romania or is at least considering the idea. They often have the same questions I had before moving. I remember searching the web for any kind of first-hand information to no avail back in 2010 before I moved. So below are the top five questions I receive from readers and their answers. I must preface this with the reminder that these are my own opinions based on personal experiences.

1. How do I get a visa / resident permit? - The easiest way I know of to get a resident permit is to marry a Romanian (done!) or get hired by a large corporate company based in Bucharest. The later has the resources to provide any permit or visa you need. American tourist visas are granted right when you enter the country (that passport stamp is important) and last for 90 days. After that I've heard of people traveling to the nearest country, Bulgaria, and then returning to kickstart another 90 day tourist visa period. This last option is a bit risky in my opinion since you are leaving your chances up to the mercy of an immigrations officer who may or may not want to stamp your passport. The benefit of the 90 day country hopping plan is that you get to avoid the endless headache that is the Romanian immigration office and its paperwork. A general note: After living here for over a year I've observed that Americans are much more concerned (or should I say conditioned?) in regards to following immigration laws than your average Romanian. I've had a few laugh at my deep concern to be in the country legally. "Who will catch you if you're not?!" is a remark I've gotten a few times. Make of that what you will.

2. Can I work in Romania? -From my experience the vast majority of American expats that come to Romania do so because they or their spouse have obtained a job here. If that is your situation you probably don't need to read this paragraph. For the 2% that come to Romania without employment already secured I would say: come with a good chunk of savings. Romania has been hit by the crisis like everyone else. Jobs are scarce and if you were to be hired, employers are required to prove that they could not find a Romanian qualified to do the same job. Teaching English or working for an NGO are areas worth looking into. Speaking Romanian is not required across the board but it will greatly improve your chances of finding work.

3. Should I learn the language?- In short, yes I think it is great to learn the language wherever you may be living; Romanians definitely appreciate the effort. On the other hand many Romanians speak English very well so learning Romanian is not a must before moving here. If you can, try and at least learn the basics before coming.

4. Healthcare?- Romania, like many in the European Union, has a state run healthcare system. The big difference being that in Romania the system is "in shambles" and requires bribing of medical staff and/or paying for private medical care (source: Public Radio International article). This is a complex problem who's intricacies I won't get into on this blog. The reality is that you will probably be able to afford quality private medical care (much cheaper here than in the US) and won't use the state run clinics/hospitals. I've had both good and bad experiences with the medical system in this country. I hate the idea of bribing but love that my medication which usually costs $100 USD back home was a mere $4 here. If all this makes you nervous than I advise you do what I did- get all your major check-ups or operations done before moving.

5. What is it like living there? Short answer: Safe, at times frustrating, and always interesting. By far Romania's two greatest assets are its people and the country's natural beauty. The later of which you'll only see if you leave the city. From my experience Romanians are extremely close with friends and family. If you are someone they know and care about they would do anything to help if you are in need. It is a great feeling, especially if you ever have the pleasure to be a guest in a Romanian's home. On the other hand, if you are a stranger the treatment is not nearly as warm and welcoming (at least in the big city of Bucharest). There is a joke amongst Romanians that roughly translates to "Romania is a beautiful country, too bad it is inhabited" For me this joke hits at the bitter truth about a country who has all the resources to be great but which has suffered at the hands of mass corruption in government and greed. So how does this translate to daily life? Well things don't always work as they should here. As simple as that sounds, there is a level of civil orderliness to life in the United States that is not the same here. It can be a rough adjustment.

Grand staircase of the former royal palace (now the National Art Museum) about 4am. Photo by Catalin Abagiu

I did it! Took the 1 hour drive to Ruse, Bulgaria. These are a few outtakes from the days photos, to see more visit my photography blog vivianphoto.

A photograph I made of grafitti art in downtown Bucharest. I think this would make an excellent postcard don't you?

A few weeks ago I was asked to submit an article detailing my favorite places/things in Bucharest for a Romanian airline's flight magazine. I know what you're thinking - who ever reads the airline magazine?! Probably not very many people but thanks to the internet I get to share my favorite places with you here. This list is a bit expanded from what ended up in the magazine, I hope you enjoy these places as much as I do: 

Carol I Central University Library - Founded by King Carol I in 1895, this beautiful building was designed by French architect Paul Gottereau. My favorite part of this library is the "professor's reading room" which like much of the library was completely destroyed during the revolution but now has been fully restored. Unfortunately public access to this room is restricted to one night of the year - The Night of the Museums which was on Sunday May 20th 2012. If you really want to take a peak try contacting the library in advance to schedule a visit. Contact info is listed on their website.

Inside the Professor's reading room on the night of the museums.Photograph by: Catalin Abagiu

1.     Restaurant Le Theatre’s summer garden – is a hidden gem in the downtown area. Just off of Strada Victoriei, it’s umbrellaed patio sets nestled amongst lush green grass offers a cool and quiet refuge from the buzz of the city. You’ll feel as though you’re dining in someone’s backyard because you are dining in someone's backyard. In fact, this is a former residence of the Ceasescu family. Friday evenings they often have live music, check their website to reserve a spot.

Views of the summer patio garden at Restaurant Le Theatre. Images sourced from their website.

2.    Vintage Bookstore: Anticariat Unu – Once you’ve fallen in love with the history of the city the time will come to purchase a few souvenirs. “Anticariat Unu” is a great alternative to the magnet and keychain usually brought home from trips. Here you can discover your own unique souvenirs. Browse through their vintage books, stacks of magazines, and read the headlines of newspapers during Ceasescu’s reign. My personal favorites are the boxes of old postcards dating back to WWI.  The one above is a 1921 picture postcard mailed to Bucharest by a Romanian man, his wife and her sister. Strada Academiei nr. 4-6 (Universitate Area).

      


    Cismigiu Park – is on everyone’s ‘must visit’ list for good reason. Bucharest’s oldest park serves as an extended living room to nearby apartment dwellers like myself and also a place for tourists to mingle with locals. The park offers more than just a quiet stroll, there are boat rides, playgrounds, and small cafes to help make your visit a pleasurable one. Although most come to see its beauty during the day, the park is just as lively and beautiful at night.

   Lipscani – is known for its nightlife but before the nighttime rush old town is the perfect place to people watch.  Relax and enjoy a drink at one of the dozens of patios while you watch visitors and locals walk along the streets of Lipscani. Another good spot is on the steps of the Romanian National Bank (in Lipscani) where street musicians often perform.

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Village Museum – Or Muzeul Satului as it is known here is one of the largest and oldest outdoor museums in Europe.  It is a personal favorite of mine because it holds a collection of authentic traditional Romanian dwellings, which were relocated from all the different regions of Romania. Not long ago the majority of Romanians lived a rural life; this museum pays homage to that tradition and helps visitors get a better understanding of the history behind today’s Romania. Don’t miss the gift shop it is the best place in town for traditional Romanian goods!

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      Food:   
Best bean soup - I've had a few bean soups in this town but Atena cafeteria is hands down the best. Their ciorba de fasole is the perfect balance of bean, broth, pork, and spices. If you're thinking best means expensive, think again. This is a no-frills place where most people take their meals to-go. There is however bar seating inside, which is where I prefer to eat my hot bowl of soup alongside a huge chunk of bread and a hot pepper. Simple and good. It is the kind of place I'd take Anthony Bourdain if he ever came to town again. Atena is on the same street as the Intercontinental hotel (Strada Batistei 17) located just before Batistei Church.


 Shaorma – Forget McDonalds the shoarma is Bucharest’s fast food of choice when you need a quick lunch or a late-night snack. My favorite is the Greek gyro (Romanians refer to it as the Greek shaorma) but you’ll also find Arab and Turkish variations. If you’d like to try them all, the Lipscani area has several shaorma stands to choose from but my favorite greek shaorma is from Gyros Sotos, located Northeast of Piata Romana.  There is no place to sit and the sign simply reads "Gyros" but you'll be happy to stand once you take a bite of their food. Address: Strada Mihai Eminescu 85 -Sectorul 2 Bucuresti. Hours: Monday - Sunday: 10:00 a.m. to 10:00 p.m. Phone: 0768.731.511

Every now and then I go by Lidl, the German discount supermarket chain, to see what interesting items they may have. Why Lidl? Well, besides having top rated olive oil at a great price they're also a unique source for ethnic food. Every few weeks they pick a type of cuisine (Chinese, French, Indian, etc.) and bring in products. There are some great finds to be had. Last week was Mexican themed which aligned perfectly with the Cinco De Mayo holiday. I stocked up on crunchy tacos, lots of ripe avocados, and silver tequila. They also had sliced jalepenos but I'm more of a serrano pepper gal so I skipped those. The crunchy tacos were an especially good buy - impossible to find otherwise. Taco night, with guacamole, for the win!

Sad you missed out? Pick up some silver tequila at Lidl or any other supermarket. Then make yourself a margarita like you've never made before. No really, this recipe is not normal. I couldn't find triple sec anywhere in the city, just a rather steeply priced bottle of Cointreau which --as much as I love margaritas--wasn't worth it. Plan B: Orange zest provides the same flavors as triple sec according to my research. The result is a make-shift margarita that I've been preparing a few times a week. I love an afternoon cocktail over lunch :) Hope you try this and like it:

Viv's Make-shift Margarita (Serves 2)

• 2 shots of tequila
• 1 lime (juiced)
• Zest of 1/2 an orange (perfect substitute for triple sec, I promise)
• Splash of lime soda
• 2 teaspoons of sugar (optional)
• Ice

Juice the lime, add the orange zest, sugar and tequila - then mix. At this point pour a bit of lime soda in (don't overdo it). Rim a glass with a sugar/salt combo and pour your margarita over lots of ice. Enjoy!

*Special note: This post is not brought to you by Lidl, I just like the place. 

Scan of a vintage Easter postcard. Translation: "Christ has risen"

 Another year, another Easter in Romania. Do I miss my American version of holidays? Of course but I have a lifetime of those ahead so better to enjoy the sarmale, ciorba, laughter and joy in this part of the world than cry for things missed back home. Medias awaits... Paste Fericit~Happy Easter everyone! 

p.s. I found the postcard at my new favorite bookstore in Bucharest -more on that after vacation. 

When I went home to Texas  last summer I made sure to pack a special item in my carry-on for the return flight, a kilogram's worth of H-E-B's finest corn tortillas. The airport security guy had a puzzled look as he reviewed my x-rayed luggage and politely asked to open my bag. This is the point where I started to feel like a total weirdo for packing so many tortillas but I needed them! Then after unzipping, the big reveal "Ooh, its just tortillas!" he said, chuckling. I tried to tell him that they don't sell these where I'm headed but I don't think this helped my crazy tortilla woman case. It was hilarious all around. Now, almost a year later, the stash has run out. The time had come to further explore the Mexican cuisine scene in Bucharest. There are not a lot of Mex restaurants in town but here are three I've been to:

Just like home! Interior of La Bonita Restaurant Lipscani plus a shot of their guacamole nachos.

La Tortilla  12-25 RON (Around $8 USD)
Truth is I walked into this restaurant and walked right back out a year ago. Silly me, I was too new to the Bucharest (ok, Romania) and very quick to judge one of the few Mexican restaurants in town. This weekend after seeing their new location open in the heart of Lipscani I decided to give it a try. La Tortilla is a fast food restaurant that delivers the kind of calorie laden meals you love to hate eat. Tacos, quesadillas, burritos -yum. Just don't expect authentic, this place is as authentic as Taco Bell . But hey, I don't mind Taco Bell  :) Favorite part of my visit? When the guy at the cash register 'educated' Catalin that the crunchy taco shells were 'chips' not tacos! Second favorite part --- biting into the Tacos de Vita...mmm not bad after not having any kind of crunchy taco for a while. Advice:  Tacos Chili con Carne are too spicy, I'd skip them. Also don't bother getting the menu/combo meal -fries have no place with your tacos de vita.

La Bonita 25-55 RON (Around $15 USD)
Well what do you know, the  Lipscani district is also home to a Tex-Mex restaurant- a pretty good one at that. I visited on a lazy Sunday afternoon with Cata when I happened to be feeling extra homesick. We were both impressed with the menu options: fajitas, nachos, tacos, guacamole, quesadillas and enchiladas made from corn tortillas. When the food came we were even happier. Cata devoured a plate of beef enchiladas while I happily munched on guacamole covered nachos. Their salsa tastes more like marinara sauce but that is standard around these parts. This is an excellent lunch or dinner option just remember it turns into a club/bar at night.

El Torito  100 RON ( Around $30 USD)
Though not located near the center of town, El Torito is the first Mexican restaurant I visited. It is also the most expensive which would not have been a big deal if the food was worth the price. Unfortunately I don't think it is worth what they charge. The menu is full of items I recognize: empanadas, flautas, enchiladas, margaritas, etc. I thought I'd surely found a winner. Verdict: The food looks good and tastes...ok but something about the seasoning just wasn't right. To me it didn't have the flavors of Mexican food, just the looks. With La Bonita being closer to home, half the price and providing better flavor I don't see myself returning to El Torito. Still this place does have a lot on the menu so I wouldn't discourage someone from going and trying it for themselves. The atmosphere is nice too -- Spanish music, a terrace, Mexican decor everywhere you look. I hear they even have mariachi's.

Anyone been to a place not on this list or have a favorite foreign cuisine in town? I'd love to try more.

A few weeks ago I had a rare moment where I got giddy with excitement about something going on in the city. As much as this is a a large happening metropolitan area I have had a tough time finding fun and interesting things to do around here that A) don't cost a fortune and B) don't involve the usual eat+drink+ talk formula. Don't get me wrong, I enjoy that formula but I also enjoy mixing things up. Admittedly it is harder to know about all the 'goings on' if you're not a local/fluent Romanian speaker.

Back to the point: One World Romania Documentary Film Festival rolled into town and I was thrilled. I'm a sucker for documentary films especially after having experienced the magic of the True/False Documentary Film Fest back when I lived in Columbia, Missouri. Not everything in the line-up attracted me but I was willing to buy a 5 film pass (I ended up seeing a few more than that for free!). 

Best in Show: Our School 

Hands down Scoala Noastra - translation Our School -was the best film out of this festival for me. It was a difficult story to watch but the quality of storytelling itself was superb. Here is the movie trailer and link to the website which lists upcoming screenings. 

Second Best: Life in Stills
Life in Stills is the kind of film that makes you laugh and cry profusely. I enjoyed watching the drama unfold in this story and seeing the hilarious relationship between a grumpy 96 year-old woman and her grandson who works with her in the photo shop.  Again, check the website to find screenings. They're also selling the dvd.

Lastly
What does 'filme brici' mean? According to my official translator brici [breeech] means sharp as in smart/stylish. So these were sharp films in that sense of the word. After a week of films, a free t-shirt, and lots of movie snacks- I agree wholeheartedly.